Bijan

Bijan used to be my favourite restaurant, so it was one of the first on my list to review for Time Out KL. However, it pains me to report that since their renovation late last year the quality of the food has really dropped. It is still unquestionably one of KL’s top high-end Malay restaurants and some of the dishes are excellent. However, others have suddenly become either annoyingly inconsistent or just downright mediocre.

I went with visiting friends and it proved one of the most frustrating places to review, as some in the group were raving about their fantastic meals while others could hardly get more than a few mouthfuls in. On the plus side, the fish was all excellent. The best meal of the night, by some way, was the Ikan Siakap Masak Asam Pedas (sea bass simmered in a tangy chilli and tamarind gravy, served with okra and aubergines), although the chicken in spicy curry was also very good. Onto the negatives and the biggest let-down was the Daging Rendang.

A dish perfected long ago and served up in countless eateries in KL, but since last year, the beef rendang at Bijan has been over-cooked, dry and tough. This put two of our group off the whole evening so that no matter how enthusiastic our friends were about their chicken and fish, the night had to be considered a disappointment. And that was before the Durian Cheesecake. This dessert was even more divisive than the main course. Durian, the ultimate acquired taste, has been taken by the Bijanistas and put into this unique cake. Fluffy, light, with a beautiful biscuit base, these positive features fade into insignificance due to the overpowering stench and taste of the ‘King of fruits’.

In my opinion this was just too much and ruined another delightful dessert. However, before I could even cover my mouth with a napkin to stop the odour burning a greater hole in my nostrils, no less than three of the party said ‘Aren’t you having yours?’ and looked at the pudding with hopeful eyes. The menu at Bijan often changes, so I hope that before long, the restaurant gets rid of the poorer dishes and replaces them with food to match the best that they produce.

If they do that, they will reclaim the heights they managed when winning various tourism and culinary awards a few short years ago. And if they manage that, I’ll even forgive them the Durian Cheesecake.



Contact:
Bijan, 3 Jalan Ceylon, KL.
Tel: 03 2031 3575

Website:
N/A

Operating Hours:
Mon-Sat, 11am-2.30pm; 6pm-11pm;
Sun 3pm-11pm.

Cuisine:
Malay